BRANDS & RETAIL - KOLKATA

The Big Time for Branding Kolkata, the heart of the eastern India, might be a red bastion for three decades, but the splash of brands, both domestic and international, one noticed in the last one month would have made even the staunchest supporter of capitalism proud. As the Durga Puja arrived in the region all the brand managers tried their level best to capture the mind-space (read wallet size) of the consumers. Advertisements, promotions, user-centric activities and freebies ruled the market. The activities, though started sometime in July-August, reached a crescendo by the end of September.
The products were as varied as it could be. Every consumable item was on display, ranging from cosmetics, clothing and cutlery to garment and gourmet. Even non-FMCG products add new dimensions in their campaigns to capture the market space of FMCG. And to lead it all were the new malls and shopping complexes. In fact, the shopping pattern in Kolkata in the last few years has witnessed dramatic changes. Earlier, the crowd would flock the Hogg Market, popularly known as the New Market, and the near about places like Treasure Island, Shreeram Arcade or Firpo’s Market.
While New Market is located in the Central Kolkata, Gariahat in South and Hatibagan in North also pulled huge crowds. The century-old New Market is probably the oldest organised shopping complex in India. It has survived decades and even a evastating fire but now it is failing to fight the competition from slick and glamorous malls Forum, Gariahat Mall or Salt Lake City Centre.
Individual one-shop leaders like Rahman Stores, A Shaw, Geeta, Vidhata or Kimbadanti have almost lost the competition to national chains like West Side, Pantaloons, Shoppers Stop, Landmark, Fashion Station, Big Bazaar, Citi Mart and Bazaar Kolkata and of course, Satya Paul. “These are all destination malls where retainment time of an individual shopper is extremely high. People also do not mind traveling the extra mile because the atmosphere is pollution free and air-onditioned. The ambience is certainly preferable to the heat, humidity, noise and dust that is
generally associated with roadside shops or old arcades”, the manager of a leading national shopping chain told BE. Older players who are trying to survive this severe competition have actually lowered the price range of their fares. As a result, the wonders of the yester years no longer attract the premium crowd. It lost its niche. In comparison the new players continued to gain on their growth rates and market shares. The Pujas made the new comers more aggressive-be it in customer offering,
product variety or increased shop timings. Like elsewhere in the country, in Kolkata
too, sales of branded garments have picked up. The roadside tailor and their shops have lost their significance. Queues have vanished and with it the last minute pleadings to accept orders. It is now the time for Kouton, Arrow, Lee, Nike, Wrangler, Raymond, Benetton, Bare, John Millers, Turtle, Allen Solly, Park Avenues, Excalibur, Black Berry, Hakoba, Biba, Kashish, Stop and Tommy Hilfiger, to name a few. The brand explosion in the cosmetic sector is not that dramatic as witnessed in the garments simply because the market is ruled by the multinationals and these are present in India for years. For example, the leader is still Levers. Hindustan Lever products are accepted by consumers across the board and it is not restricted only to Kolkata. Even in smaller towns Lakme, Ponds, Fair & Lovely or Ayush have stood out in the shop shelves. Apart from Levers, the other consumer brands are Revlon, Avon and others. Next to it are the domestic majors like Shahnaz Hussain, Habibs,
Naturoma, Ayur, Emami and others. Apart from the MNC and non-MNC leaders, West Bengal, and Kolkata in particular, have witnessed a sudden surge in the number of local brands.
Without judging the quality of the products (being a subjective issue and better to left to the buyers’ discretion) it can be safely said that these brands deserve accolades for giving the market leaders a run for their money. Like Shenaz or Habibs, here too, the products are individual driven - probably an extension of a national phenomenon.
Leading the race are Aparajita Rudra’s Akansha and Keya Seth’s Aromatherapy.
Both are well-known beauticians of the city and have a wide range of skincare
and haircare products.
Beauty parlours and salons are an extension of the beauty and cosmetic industry. The sector has been registering tremendous growths. So, as the Durga Puja neared the crowds simply swelled at these joints. The hot spots of the city were Habibs, Eye Catchers, A.N. John, June Tomkyns, Head Turner, Tressbay, Kaya Skin Clinic, Personality, Glitz & Glamour and others. Hair streaking was the most sought after service. It was followed with hair straightening and perming. “People with curly locks wanted to straighten their hair and those with long tresses opted for perming. Changing the hair colour has become a fashion statement be it for the male or the female. Clients walk in for a complete makeover”, said the Kolkata manager of Habibs.
Durga Puja is actually a time when people spend a lot of money, but traditionally it was only on clothes, food and beauty. Jewellery was hardly bought at this time of the year. However, after studying the high spending levels, Anjali Jewellers (a leading jeweler with several outlets) offered attractive discounts justbefore the Pujas. No matter what the result is, it is certain that the players in the sector would certainly pick the trend and make interesting offers next year.

AS Watson launches first Marionnaud in Asia
Chinese retailer A.S. Watson Group, a division of Hutchison Whampoa Limited, launched the first Marionnaud in the Asian Beauty market with the inauguration of its first flagship store (900-square metre ) recently in the Mall of Asia in Manila. The store offers a range of over 5,700 perfumeries and cosmetic products from 70 beauty brands and 17 exclusive brands, some of which are first time launches in the Philippines market. The perfumery also provides beauty treatments and nail spa service, targeted at the affluent shoppers. Philippines is a developing economy and has a HK$2 billion beauty market with a 20 to 25% year-on-year growth . According to
company sources ‘‘with over 160 exisiting Watsons Your Personal Stores already in the country, Marionnaud complements the existing health and beauty offer by creating an upmarket, luxurious shopping environment for consumers’’. Watson acquired French perfumery chain Marionnaud - Europe’s largest chain of luxury perfumeries and cosmetics, in 2005. Marionnaud retails selectively distributed fragrance, colour cosmetics and skin care and combines it with personalised service.

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